The trip notes had said we were due to drive but due to the strike (which felt like it should really be over by now) it wasnt possible. I was more than happy with the bike option and it was great cycling through the local streets and we saw much more than we would have done by car. The quality of the bikes however was slightly debatable and almost straight away it was clear that our journey would take longer than planned due to several mechanical stops on the way. My bike had only 1 workable gear, a swiveling seat and really shoddy brakes but I was one of the lucky ones. All except Kelly who had an almost new bike which looked like it had been taken straight from the streets of Amsterdam. All that was missing was a loaf of bread in the basket.

After setting off it was clear that the Pokhara we were staying in was really a fairly isolated tourist zone far removed from the main town which was further up the valley. As we continued upwarss in the direction of the Annapurna ranges we heard whistling and soon enough it was obvious that we had run into a Maoist protest. Any roller shutters that had started to creep upwards suggesting that the shop might be open were quickly dropped back down as people watched the protesters pass. By now in day 3 of the strike I got the feeling that people just wanted to get on with their lives and start earning a living again.

People watch on as the peaceful protest passes through town

We continued up towards the mountains observing the locals going about their daily routines. Often the children would shout out at us or run after us on our bikes.

Possibly the most funky waistcoat I've ever seen

The army then passed us (possibly following the protest) and it was clear that they didn't take the whole thing too seriously.

We finally cleared the main town and reached the misty blue waters of the Seti River. From here we would continue up towards the mountain shown in the foreground of the picture below where we would climb to our home stay in the village of Hyenjakot. A few of the local children were keen to pose with us as we all took turns in trying to capture the incredible view up the river. 

The group and our new friends

Off again passing the local sherpas and children enjoying the traffic free roads

Our next stop was a Tibetan refugee centre and monastery where there was a chance to get involved in a kick about with some of the local children. In the past where I have chosen to indulge the locals with my lss than attractive football skills I had come a cropper (see Sa Pa - 2008 http://www.travellinghibbo.com/my-journal/month/april-2008?currentPage=2).

This time no Tiger beer was involved so no excuse not to be confident with showing these kids a thing or two. My sobriety didn't really assist but they seemed relatively impressed with a couple of my moves and my knowledge of the English Premier League. They seemed more interested with Barcelona who are current European Club champions. Even the kids in these remote locations are fickle. A year before they would have been wearing Man Utd shirts. 

A local takes the load off and takes in the view

The strike influencing the Nepal gambling problem

Pohkara from the nearby Peace Pagoda (Courtesy of Wikimedia Commons)

Lake Phewa and the Annapurna Range looming behind (Courtesy of Mehedi Hasan Sumon)

Street scenes during the strike with not a car to be seen 

Lake Phewa

The View of Machupehsuehfh above the surrounding hills 

Pokhara has become a centre in Nepal for Paragliding. There were Paragliders out everywhere and just as I took this photograph an English guy landed not so far away. He explained that you can simply get up to the top of the mountain immediately next to the lake and jump with no restrictions on where you take off or land. He told me that he paid the local children to pack up his chute before heading up to the top once more. Sure enough 2 local kids immediately did just that and got the job done in minutes.

Done and ready for action again

As paragliders were landing everywhere, the locals just carried on with life enjoying a sunset walk by the lake.

The Army keeping an eye on proceedings

Worryingly the sign was attached to all four sides of the coach...

We boarded the bus and made our way to the airport. Tikay our guide had arranged to take out bags to the airport separately after instructing us to drop our bags in the hotel reception before 6am. Part of me believed that I'd never see my bag again.

We got to the airport safely with the Army escorting the bus with a truck load of men at the front and rear of the bus. We arrived at the airport and after a quick 'security check' we were re-united with our bags which were unceremoniously piled in the middle of the floor of the checking in area. I got the feeling this wasn't the sort of country that asked "have you bags been left unattended at any time". The airport domestic terminal seemed to be a bit chaotic and you could freely walk around the place unchallenged. At one point I walked straight out the back of the check in desks and had a stroll around on the tarmac. Bags were everywhere and all the dusty old offices and rooms around the check in area where filled with rubbish and junk. Signs were covered in bird crap and abandoned trolleys and piles of luggage and boxes just lay about the place. Because Nepal is such a small country this airport is largely used for Everest sightseeing flights rather than other domestic flights. As we would find out these flights somewhat dictate the running order of the day as the tourist flights are heavily dependant on weather conditions in the Himalayas.

The check in desks and the retro scales

General ditritus

Our Airline - Yeti

Customer Services

Our wait in the check in area as soon over as moved through the security check point which was basically a table with a scruffy curtain around it. We got through to the departure area which be our home for around 5 hours as all flights became more delayed. After exhausting all of the facilities including the suspect looking restaurant and the internet terminal we had had enough and just wanted to get out of there. All of this for a 25 minute flight! 

Our number was called and we walked out to the tiny plane sat out on the tarmac. We were soon up in the air after few formalities and munching on peanuts and sipping coffee. 

On board the tiny jet

I had wanted to arrange an Everest flight but had run out of time and although this wasn't an Everest viewing flight our flight path was exactly parallel to the Himalayas and provided an incredible panorama. It felt like we were flying below the level of the highest mountains and being only a 200km long flight we sat just above the cloud which gave us a clear and uninterrupted view of the mountains.

A misty View of Pokhara (827m) in the shadow of the mighty Machhapuchhre or 'Fish Tail' mountain which tops out at 6997m. 

I would have been happy to continue flying around the Himalayas but very soon after taking off we were beginning our decent and before we could settle into our seats we were back on terra firma once more. We then had to get ourselves and our gear to the hotel without the luxury of a government shuttle bus. Thankfully the enterprising locals were ready and waiting for us with all of the answers to our problems. Tikay negotiated a price for the transport and away we went.

Tikay guards the foot (now our official team mascot)

Genius.

We start the walk to the hotel a few kilometres away

The national strike was still on so the town felt very quiet and peaceful. The locals seemed to be at a loss with what to do. The shops were all shut up and people seemed to be uncomfortable with the fact that they were not working. Our walk to the hotel gave us a good chance to get a good feel of the layout of the town which is built around the shores of Lake Phewa Tal.

Pokhara is pretty unrivalled in its proximity to the scale of mountains such as the Himalayas. The Annapurna and Manaslu ranges (which rise to 8000m plus) are both visible from the town and are only around 30km away which means its a huge 7000m rise over what is a very short distance. Because of this Pokhara tends to be the popular starting point for the big treks. 

A local football game with an impressive backdrop

Local 'Ganga provision shop' closed (but giving a sign it might be open if you wanted something). 

Lake Phewa Tal

Pokhara is very popular with tourists and there are lots of lakeside options

Our hotel